Swell

Author: Evan Slater
Publisher: Chronicle Books
ISBN: 1452116490
Size: 55.84 MB
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Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography.

Methods For Analysing Wind Wave And Swell Data To Estimate On An Annual Basis The Number Of Days And The Maximum Duration Of Periods During Which Port And Ship Operations Will Be Impeded By These Elements

Author:
Publisher: PIANC
ISBN:
Size: 18.86 MB
Format: PDF, Docs
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List of symbols Ep = Encounter probability F(H'S} = Mean frequency per year of
storms of level H's = 8760f(H's} {year— 1) f(h's) = Mean frequency per hour of
upcrossings of the level H's (hi— 1) Hs = Significant wave height {mean wave
height ...

Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 9780309100625
Size: 48.50 MB
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It is not unusual to encounter wave conditions that are a mixture of swell with
superimposed wind waves. ... certain years stand out as years of giant swells in
the Pacific—1953, 1969, 1983, and 2001, for example.1 Of these, the swell of
1969 is ...

Ocean Surface Waves

Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Size: 24.90 MB
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5.2.2.3 Nonlinear coupling between swell and wind waves In nature, the
conditions of a uniform wind blowing over an ocean initially at rest occur very
infrequently. Usually the local wind waves develop in the presence of a low-
frequency ...

The Surfer S Guide To Waves Coasts And Climates

Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720585
Size: 41.21 MB
Format: PDF
View: 6424
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Then, how many of these also have good prevailing wind conditions and regular,
long-lined swells of the right size and direction ... A perfect wave might appear
one year in some estuary, but that might have been a freak combination of
excess ...

Breaking Waves

Author: Michael Banner
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 3642848478
Size: 71.81 MB
Format: PDF, ePub, Mobi
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Wave Breaking in the Presence of Wind Drift and Opposed Swell H. Mitsuyasu
Research Institute for Applied ... Introduction Many years ago Mitsuyasu [1] found
an interesting phenomenon that swell propagating in the direction of the wind ...

Coastal Management

Author: Charles Alexander Fleming
Publisher: Thomas Telford
ISBN: 9780727728487
Size: 38.76 MB
Format: PDF, ePub
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4 Wave Energy and Beach Losses Waves are both locally generated and Atlantic
swell, with wind induced energy being ... wave energy Indeed, the difference
between the predicted erosion rates using wave energy in an average year and
the ...

Descriptive Physical Oceanography

Author: M. Affholder
Publisher: CRC Press
ISBN: 9780203969274
Size: 53.34 MB
Format: PDF, Kindle
View: 1956
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(b) Swell wave Sea wave that has moved out of the wind generating area is
called a "Swell Wave". ... of wave observations collected by several voluntary
observing ships in the three non-polar oceans for a period of 8 years from 1953
to 1961 ...

Plates Plumes And Planetary Processes

Author: Gillian R. Foulger
Publisher: Geological Society of America
ISBN: 0813724309
Size: 55.60 MB
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SWELL. pilot. experiment—Evidence. for. lithosphere. rejuvenation. from. ocean.
bottom. surface. wave. data ... USA ABSTRACT During the roughly year-long
Seismic Wave Exploration in the Lower Lithosphere (SWELL) pilot experiment in
 ...